The amount of water used to dissolve the lye determines how fast your soap thickens (reaches "trace"), how soon you can cut it, how fast it dries (cures), etc. It is commonly expressed as a percentage which shows the ratio of the amount of water to the amount of oils/fats in your recipe.
Although you may use values within the range 22% to 40%, choose a larger percentage (above 33%) if you are new to soap making, because this gives you more time to handle your soap until it reaches trace and is more forgiving in case you make any errors or delays.
Even for the experienced soap makers, we still suggest a larger percentage if you are trying a recipe for the first time, or if you are using a fragrance or essential oil for the first time, because these might cause your soap to thicken too fast for you to pour in the molds, especially if the water percentage is low.
You can also use "water-to-lye ratio" to express the amount of water (some soapmakers prefer this method).If part of the lye does not react with the oils but remains in the soap after the saponification, the resulting soap will be caustic and harsh to the skin. To avoid this, most soapmakers use an excess of oils and fats in their recipes than the amount theoretically required to react with the lye. This process is called superfatting. You may also hear the term "Lye discount", which is practically equivalent.
Superfatting also benefits the skin because the excess of oils in the soap forms a protective, moisturizing layer on the skin.
Superfatting is expressed as a percentage. The common range is 1-10% (with the recommended value around 5%). However, many soapmakers apply considerably larger superfatting percentages. In general, the higher the superfatting, the softer the soap becomes, and the harder it produces lather. Also, soaps with higher superfatting tend to go rancid sooner.
We would therefore advise you to experiment with different superfatting percentages to find what meets your preferences.
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